July 9th, 2009, 11:16 pm

Tapas pet peeve

I have written about about Tapas which are small plates from Spain. But it seems as if every bar that offers small plates, no matter what the food may be, will call them “tapas”. Today I read a review of a Tapas bar in Berkeley offering such “tapas” as coconut shrimp ( pseudo Asian),fish tacos ( Mexico),smoked salmon, and, aargh!  buffalo wings with blue cheese.  Nuff said.  I have to say that this drives me crazy. These are NOT TAPAS.

Call them small plates, bar food, but please, do not call these dishes Tapas. It is offensive to those who repect this age old Spanish tradition.

June 8th, 2009, 7:55 pm

TAPAS is published

My latest book, Tapas, Sensational Small Plates from Spain is now available at your local book store and on line.  I am going on the road with it, teaching classes, doing demos and book signings and even some TV.  Here is a recent review. 

Tapas: Sensational Small Plates from Spain Joyce Goldstein Chronicle, $22.95 paper (168p) ISBN 978-0-8118-6298-1

Goldstein, author of Antipasti and Italian Slow and Savory, ably whittles down the expansive gastronomy of Spain into a worthy, compact cookbook. Instead of attempting an impossible feat—to include every component of the Spanish table in a glossy, chic nutshell—she wisely chooses the best of each dish, starting with five basic sauces that can be applied to the seafood, meat, vegetable and egg recipes that follow. Though a few dishes are larger than a typical small-plate (Asturian white bean stew or paprika-marinated pork tenderloin, for example), Goldstein stays true to the fundamental procedures and ingredients used in modern Spanish kitchens. Salty, spicy and sweet, Goldstein offers innovative tapas, showcasing the best of each of Spain’s diverse regions. Each recipe comes with wine pairings, both Spanish and non-Spanish, and the book begins with a clever rundown of Spain’s history, cheeses, cured meats and fish. While some recipes might seem daunting for beginners (cleaning squid or handling a whole octopus), there is also an entire chapter dedicated to “Shop-and-Serve Tapas” that require little to no preparation. With vibrant photos and straightforward instructions, this book has all the makings of a reliable source of fun, crowd-pleasing ideas for the contemporary cook. (June)

 And here is another :

Volumes of flavor

Celebrated cookbook author coming to region

By Doug Gruse
dgruse@poststar.com

Published: Saturday, June 06, 2009

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Not all cookbooks are created equal.As a veteran chef and author, Joyce Goldstein can pull a cookbook from the store shelf, select a random recipe and tell you — in a matter of seconds — if it will be a success or a failure.
“The people writing them didn’t have experience, and they weren’t tested,” Goldstein said of the failed recipes many home cooks have encountered.

The problem could be anything from not accounting for the difference between home and professional appliances to inaccurate measurements, according to the author of the recently released “Tapas: Sensational Small Plates from Spain.”
When Goldstein works on a cookbook — and she’s written a slew of them — she guarantees every dish will be a success.

“I pride myself in writing books where the recipes are well-tested. No one is going to call me at home hysterical because the recipe didn’t work,” she said. 
Goldstein will bring her cooking knowledge to New York and Vermont for a series of culinary events. Goldstein will be honored with a Spanish-style luncheon at noon Thursday at The Perfect Wife in Manchester Center, Vt. The author will take part in an interview-style program, moderated by chef Suvir Saran, at 7 p.m. Friday at Red Fox Books in downtown Glens Falls. She also will teach a class on Mediterranean cooking June 13 at the Battenkill Kitchen in Salem.

Goldstein was the chef and owner of Square One in San Francisco, a highly acclaimed Mediterranean restaurant. Goldstein also served as chef at the Cafe at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., and was the founder of the California Street Cooking School.

Goldstein had previously published a cookbook on Spain, but she wanted to create a book that focused on tapas, the Spanish appetizers that have gained international popularity.

“I wanted to pick the best 50 or 60 tapas recipes I could do and make sure they were perfect, and I wanted to give a little background about Spain and Spanish ingredients,” Goldstein said. 
The book offers recipes on dishes ranging from Galician double-crusted pie with a fish or meat filling to grilled green onions, artichokes and asparagus with salsa romesco.

Goldstein wanted the book to present a more authentic view of tapas than what is served in many American restaurants.

“There are all sorts of American dishes that people are calling tapas. A lot of people call things tapas that have nothing to do with Spain, they just serve them on small plates,” she said.
Goldstein believes the tapas trend eventually will become a staple rather than a fad in American cuisine.

“It’s a wonderful way to entertain people. I can’t think of anything better. A lot of them can be done ahead of time, and most of them are served at room temperature,” she said. “They are fine to eat, and they have lively flavor.”

When it comes to dining out, tapas dishes allow diners to get experimental with little risk.

“If you order an entrée in a restaurant and you don’t like it, you are out $25 to $30 bucks,” she said.

In addition to the influence of serving sizes at restaurants, the Spanish flavors of tapas are beginning to appear in contemporary American dishes.
“Years ago, you couldn’t get a lot of Spanish ingredients. I think that is why it took so long for Spain to come into people’s homes,” she said.

Today, hints of Spanish flavor are becoming common in American recipes and restaurant dishes, according to the chef.

“I think Americans are a little more adventurous. Even if it gets watered down, they are getting the flavors,” she said.

For Goldstein, writing cookbooks is as much about changing people’s food philosophies as it is about creating step-by-step instructions for specific dishes.

Goldstein’s previous book, “Mediterranean Fresh: A Compendium of One-Plate Salad Meals and Mix-and-Match Dressings,” focused on the versatility of Mediterranean dressings as marinades and finishing sauces.
In “Solo Suppers: Simple Delicious Meals to Cook for Yourself,” Goldstein was on a mission to show people that it is possible to live alone and eat well.

“I think you can cook wonderfully for yourself. I live alone, and I cook for myself,” she said.

The book was inspired by her own frustration with trying to work with recipes written to serve four to six people.

“I don’t want to eat something four days in a row,” she said.

Although some recipes can be scaled down, others don’t convert as easily. Goldstein wanted to write a book that would empower single people to get back in the kitchen.
“I really believe we eat better if we cook for ourselves. We get a better quality of ingredients with less preservatives and garbage,” she said.

Goldstein has found that eating by yourself doesn’t have to be a lonely experience.

“If you really respect yourself, you’re certainly worth a half hour of time,” she said. “You can even afford to splurge on yourself every once in a while.”



 

 

June 7th, 2009, 11:36 pm

On the Road

I know, I know. It’s been too long since I have added a post here. I have been traveling most of the Month of May  and will be gone again next week.  I was in NYC for the Beard awards ( no my book did not win; It lost out to the big food trend of the year, Fat.  So much for salads and good nutrition. Even six of the journalism award nominations were about pigs and pork.)  But the Awards ceremonies  themselves were a hit and quite inspiring. It was the first time Women in Food had been celebrated by the James Beard Foundation. All the food served at the reception and at the media dinner was prepared by women chefs.  We had women mixologists making great cocktails. And women sommeliers serving wine at the VIP dinner. As a founding member of Women Chefs and Restaurateurs , it made me mighty proud.

I also hae embarked on a new aspect of teaching. I worked with the culinary food service teams at Yale University  an at University of Massachussetts in Amherst.  Student diners are way more discerning these days and I have been teaching the  university cooks the fabulous food of the Mediterranean. It was especially poignant for me to be at Yale from where   I graduated 50 years ago. Visited the Art and Architecture school where I had been a student. Very  emotional and heartwarming.

Also was a participant in  Cooking for Solutions, a great chef event heal at the Monterey Bay Aquarium every year.  It celebrates sustainability on land and in the ocean.  Very inspiring. Did  a demo at Esalen and one at Quail Lodge in Carmel Valley. Also visited Earthbound Farms to tour their amazing gardens

Now I am off again to teach in upstate NYC with my friend chef Suvir Saran and a return visit to U Mass for a chefs conference.

So sorry to be so brief  here but time is of the essence. 

Later!

April 12th, 2009, 5:58 pm

Passover Dinner at Perbacco

 

 After last year’s successful Passover dinner  at Perbacco we decided to do it  again. Over 290 guests ate classic Italian Jewish recipes for the Passover holiday ( recipes from my cookbook Cucina Ebraica) and wow, were they happy! I guess we will have to do it again next year, as we had so many requests for a repeat performance. Chef Staffan Terje and his staff cooked their hearts out. and Umberto Gibin ran the dining room like the pro that he is.  Sommelier Mauro selected ideal wines to match the food. I am attaching the menu so you can see what was served. Stay tuned for next year’s dinner.  

  

 

A Passover Dinner celebrating traditional Jewish cooking in Italy

with recipes from “Cucina Ebraica” by  guest chef Joyce Goldstein

 

Haroset

 

**

 

Antipasti

(served family style)

Fegato di Anatra alle Uova Sode – Chopped Duck Liver, Italian Style

Spuma di Tonno al Peperoni – Tuna Paté in Roasted Peppers

Carciofi alla Giudia – Crispy Fried Artichokes, Jewish Style

Melanzane in Insalata – Grilled Eggplant Salad

Concia – Roasted Zucchini with Mint and Vinegar

Peperoni Ripieni – Peppers Stuffed with Eggplant

 

**

Primi

 

Brodo con Polpette Uova per Pesach – Passover Soup with Chicken Dumplings and Eggs

or

Crema di Carciofi – Artichoke Soup

 

***

 

Secondi

(choose one per person)

Spigola al Sugo di Carciofi – Seabass with a Sauce of Artichokes

Tonno Fresco con Piselli – Fresh Tuna with Spring Peas

 

Pollo Arrosto all’Arancia, Limone , e Zenzero

Roast Chicken with Orange, Lemon and Ginger

 

Rotolo di Vitello coi Colori – Veal Breast Stuffed with Peppers and an Omelet

Spalla di Montone con le Olive – Lamb Shoulder Braised with Olives

 

Carciofata di Trieste – Spring Vegetable Stew from Trieste (vegetarian)

 

Contorni for the Table

Purea di Patate e Olio – Olive Oil Potato Purée

Finocchio alla Giudia – Braised Fennel, Jewish Style

Carote alla Giudia - Sweet Carrots with Raisins and Pine nuts

***

 

Dolce

(served family style)

Frutta Caramellata con Zabaglione – Caramelized Fresh Fruit with Zabaglione

Pan di Spagna alle Nocciole – Passover Hazelnut Sponge Cake

Scodelline – Almond Pudding

 

$49.00 per Person

April 10th, 2009, 12:25 am

Surviving Passover

Well, I made it. What an epic. This year my schedule was very tight because I was up at the Culinary Insititure of America for the Harvard Healthy Kitchens Healthy Lives conference and my fish for the gefilte fish was flying in on Saturday and I was up in Napa. So my daughter Rachel volunteered to go to Monterey Fish to pick up the white fish and Lake Trout ( no Pike this year for some reason)  and to get my green garlic at the Farmer’s Market for my Turkish lamb stew.  Brilliant team planning. Only she got a flat tire.  Eventually AAA got her on her way, just in time to get to the fish market before it closed. And the green garlic came from Whole Foods, near where she was having her tire repaired. Crisis number one averted.

I came home and on Sunday started the fish stock and the grinding of the fish. Only as I was cleaning my pots and pans and the ktichen semlled of fish, and the phone was ringing, the disposal jammed and the sink stopped up and a geyser of filthy water spewed up.  The last time this happened was at Thanksgiving. My sink seems to know when a holiday is on hand . After a few minutes of cursing and panic, my son in law came over and unjammed the disposal, I mopped up the mess and I was back in business. Crisis number two  averted.  Gefilte fish made and delicious, all 45 pieces, and stock reduced to a perfect gel. Before I left for Napa I had put up the pickled salmon as it needs a week to cure. So the fish course was done.  

The next day  I did the rest of my marketing, picking up the preordered chicken fat, chicken livers,lamb for the stw and a million other items to make this the Seder of Seders. I had 14 coming for dinner and lots of work ahead. I had to find room in the refrigerators for all this food! Sort of like sedeing how how many clowns you can fit in the Volkswagen. A tight fit.  I dug out the  4 gallons of home made chicken soup and a container of lamb stock for the stew from the freezer. 

Next  I had to opening the table to its maximum dimensions and find extra chairs in the basement. Standing on a ladder to get to the upper reaches of my cabinets I brought down 5 sets of plates for all the courses and all those wine classes. I unearthed the Seder plate and the Haggadahs. I made the Sephardic dried fruit haroset. Really good this year.  Finally, pooped, I made the prep list for the next few days.  The  Passover count down had begun. 

The next day  was the 12 onion day.  6 chopped and 6 sliced. I did this before I put on my mascara, tired of streaks.  I cut up the chicken fat and started it rendering on the stove. I trimmed all of the chicken livers. I boiled eggs.  Finally I added the sliced onions to the fat and made our favorite forbidden treat, the gribines ( crispy browned fat cracklings and onions. )Yum. I have to hide them so I don’t eat too much. I made the chopped liver.   I only make these once a year as they are  not really good for you. But delicious. Only once a year do we indulge.   

Now it was stew time. I trimmed the lamb and browned it. Green onions and green garlic were trimmed and blanched.  While the stew simmered I made the flourless hazelnut cake. Another 10 eggs.

I set the table and did the flowers. I was ready for a glass of wine.  One more day of cooking ahead .

Seder day was upon me! Vegetables to prep, horseradish to grate, and matzo balls to prepare. All 70 of them as they are very very popular with the family . I make floaters, not sinkers and  everyone wants more than 2 or 3. The last items on my to-do list were to chop herbs, assemble the Seder plate, slice the berries and pour blood orange juice over them.  I also pulled wine from the cellar. A big crowd called for big bottles.

One of our guests was wine maker Bob Long so I pulled a double magnum of his 1979 Cabernet Sauvignon from the cellar to go with the lamb. The cork was old but Bob and my son Evan managed to get it out without breaking it and they poured it carefully into 4  decanters. Crisis averted. My neighbor Jon Bonne who is the wine editor at the San Francisco Chronicle brought a magnum of 2004 Vouvray Brut to go with the gefilte fish. And we had some other wines as backup for the intervening courses  Finally I chilled some Brachetto for the berries and cake.

Everyone arrived on time. The grandkids asked the 4 questions and answered them. We took turns reading  from the Haggadah and cheers went up when the meal was announced. We had a great evening.

I ran the dishwasher twice before going to bed and ran it again this morning.  Dishes and glassware put away. All I can say is thank goodness fo leftovers. I am going  to enjoy the whole meal again tonight, with the last of the wine.  And maybe eat some more the next day  A successful Seder and no crisis today. So far.

March 24th, 2009, 9:12 pm

teaching at the Spa

I have just returned from teaching at Rancho La Puerta Spa in Tecate, Baja California, a really beutiful place. Gorgeous landscaping, fine facilities, cozy casitas, a great sports program, where you can hike, bike, do Pilates, Yoga, cardio drummning, work and stretch all of your muscles, and also get massages and facials. Sounds like heaven. The also have a beautiful cooking school. I was there to teach three hands-on classes . What I did not realize is that many of those who signed up for a class had never cooked anything ever! It was pretty scary watching beginners wield a dull 10 inch chef’s knife. We all survived,  had fun cooking  in teams and made some very tasty food. In fact the food we cooked was tastier than the too fussy food at the Ranch. Every dish they served either had too many ingredients or not enough real flavor  for me. I know I am spoiled but I think I was not alone in this opinion.  The saddest news to report is that after walking miles, no wine at meals and eating tiny portions of a mostly vegetarian menu. I did not lose an ounce.   How bummed am I.

March 24th, 2009, 9:11 pm

James Beard Award nomination!!

I just found out that my most recent cook book, Mediterranean Fresh, has been nominated for a James Beard Award, in the single subject category. It is a book about SALADS and dressings. It is up against one book on Fat and another on Casseroles.  Both worthy topics for exploration but if gods of good health, freshness, and seasonality are listening, Salads will prevail. So I have fingers and toes crossed and will find out about the results on May 4 in New York.  

I wrote this book after doing many years of restaurant consulting work where I learned that most chefs had no idea how to construct a great salad. To them it was use the least experienced cook or trainee, put some greens in a bowl and throw on some gloppy dressing. Like many a home cook.

Salads  have been the Rodney Dangerfield of the restaurant  business. Salad bars have produced even worse results because they put out a range of ingredients that may or may not belong in the same bowl and let the diner pick and choose and then put on a dressing that 9 out of 10 times does not go with half of the ingredients in the bowl.  Mediterranean Fresh shows how to design a great salad and what dressings work with the chosen ingredients.  I think this book shold be required reading in cooking schools and for anyone who loves salads but wishes for more culinary diversity

Anyway, please keep your fingers crossed for my book, too. That would be much appreciated.

March 11th, 2009, 9:30 pm

Upcoming cooking classes

I will be teaching a class on Mediterranean Small Plates at Draegers in San Mateo on  March 31. These classes are always a hit and everyone goes home to cook the food. A high compliment to this chef!

But the big news is that on April 16 also at Draegers I will be cooking with my son Evan giving his fabulous wine commentary alongside. This is a rare opportunity to get us teaching together as we are both so busy and traveling all the time, it’s hard to get us in the same place at the same time. It’s a Perfect Pairings reunion.  Hope to see you there. Contact Draegers cooking school  650 685 3704 or 800 642 9463

March 11th, 2009, 9:21 pm

Omnivore Books

On Saturday I gave a talk at Omnivore Books, a new store dedicated only to cookbooks.  What a great place to browse and shop.  The crowd was lively and not afraad to ask lots of questions. my favorite  kind of audience. And they scarfed down all of the food I brought  for them to taste. I made a fava bean puree seasoned with toasted cumin, lemon and garlic, from my book Mediterranean Fresh. And then I made Sicilian sweet and sour artichokes cooked in three citrus juices: orange, lemon and tangerine, from Italian Slow and Savory, and another version from Mediterranean Fresh. Those vanished in a heartbeat.

My biggest surprise was to hear that many in the audience had been following this blog, so now I feel guilty for not having wirtten more often.  I’ve been unaware of this silent readership. Speak up, please, from time to time.  

I will return to Omnivore on June 20 when my nerw book. Tapas, Sensational Small Plates frolm Spain, will be published by Chronicle Books.  Hope we have another good crowd. I think it’s fun for people to get to taste a recipe or two before buying a book.

Here is one of the dishes I cooked on Saturday.

Carciofi ai Quattro Succhi

Artichokes Braised in Citrus Juices

 

Artichokes and citrus are a magic combination.  I have braised artichokes in orange juice in recipes from Morocco and Turkey. This Sicilian classic, however, combines three citrus juices and vinegar, adds salt in the form of anchovies, and sugar for sweetness and flavor balance.  These spectacular artichokes are best served at room temperature. They are stellar in an antipasto assortment.

 

Serves 6 

 

6 artichokes

1 lemon

3 onions, cut in half and sliced thin

½ cup olive oil plus 1 tablespoon

1/2 cup orange juice

½ cup tangerine juice

¼ cup lemon juice

¼ cup white wine vinegar

2 cups water

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons salted capers, rinsed

 4 anchovy fillets, finely minced

 2 tablespoons sugar or to taste

Chopped mint, optional

Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze the juice of the lemon into it. If the artichoke stems are tender, trim them to 2 inches and peel. If not, cut the stems off close to the base. Remove the tough outer leaves, trim the tops of the artichokes with a sharp knife, pare away all the dark green parts, until you reach the pale green leaves. Cut the artichokes in half. Carefully scoop out the choke with a melon ball scoop, or a small pointed spoon. As each artichoke is trimmed, drop it into the lemon water.

 

In a Dutch oven heat ½ cup olive oil over low heat. Add the sliced onions and the drained artichoke halves along with the juices, vinegar, water and salt. Cover the pan and cook very slowly, over low heat, until the artichokes are tender, about 35 to 40 minutes.

With a slotted spoon carefully remove the artichokes to a serving bowl.  To the juices remaining in the pan add the rinsed capers and reduce the sauce over high heat until thickened, about 10 to 15 minutes.

In a small sauté or sauce pan warm the anchovies in a tablespoon of oil and when they are dissolved add them to the sauce, along with sugar. Cook for 5 minutes longer, adjust sweetness ratio and then spoon sauce over the artichokes. Serve at room temperature.

Garnish with chopped mint if you like.

 

March 2nd, 2009, 11:53 pm

Cooking in the real world

So here we are in the throes of the new economy.   Bye Bye beef, Hello beans. But do not despair. Today I made the most delicious Persian inspired yogurt soup called ashe maste which has chickpeas, lentils, basmati rice,  little tiny meatballs and green onions, parley and mint. It will feed me for a few days and it only used $3.00 of ground beef.  This is the new economy and I will eat well. So can you.  This recipe is in my book Solo Suppers and it’ s a keeper.

The Mediterranean is loaded with such creative and yummy meals in a bowl. Moroccan harira, bean soups with greens from Southern Italy. We need to think differently. Forget the giant piece of meat at the center of the plate.  Use protein for a hint of flavor and let vegetables, and grains and beans do the heavy lifting.

Persian Meatball Soup  From Solo Suppers  about 3 bowlsful  YUM!

 

When I am in the mood to cook, I enjoy preparing meatballs as a mildly meditative activity. I usually make a double batch, use some for a pan sauté, and save some for a soup supper, or maybe for pasta. Certainly the guazzetto of white beans with greens (page xx) would welcome meatballs instead of seafood. My favorite meatball soup, however, is Persian. It has a yogurt base bound with an egg and flour and must not boil, or the yogurt will curdle. Just keep stirring. The soup is a lovely pale yellow, which is set off by the green of the mint and green onions and the brown of the meatballs. When pomegranates are in season I sprinkle a few of the jewel-like red seeds on top.  

 

1/4 cup dried chickpeas

1/4 cup green or black lentils

1/3 pound ground beef

3 tablespoons grated yellow onion

1 egg, lightly beaten and then divided in two

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 cup low- fat plain yogurt

1 teaspoon flour

1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 tablespoons basmati rice

3 cups chicken stock or water

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons chopped green onions, including the tender green tops

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

Salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 clove garlic, very finely minced

Pomegranate seeds garnish (optional)

 

Pick over the dried chickpeas and remove any stones or debris. Rinse well, put in a saucepan and cover with 1 cup cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and cook for a few minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand for 1 hour. Drain the beans and return them to the saucepan with cold water to cover by about 2 inches. Bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to low, add salt, cover and simmer until beans are tender, about 40 to 50 minutes. Drain and reserve.

Pick over the lentils and remove any stones or debris. Rinse well, put the lentils in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer until firm‑tender, about 25 minutes. Drain and reserve.

In a bowl combine the ground beef, grated onion, half of the egg, salt, pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon of the cinnamon. Mix well with your hands. Fry a tiny patty of the mixture to see if it is seasoned to your taste. Adjust seasoning if necessary, then form the beef mixture into tiny meatballs, about the size of a nickel, or smaller if you have the patience. Refrigerate.

To make the soup base, spoon the yogurt into a medium saucepan. Whisk in the remaining half egg, the flour, the turmeric and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon. Add the rice, the reserved lentils and two cups of the stock.  Place over low heat and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes. Add the reserved chickpeas, the parsley, green onions, and most of the chopped mint. Simmer for 10 minutes more, then add the meatballs and simmer 10 minutes longer. Add the remaining stock if needed.

In a small sauté pan, melt the butter. Add the garlic and sauté until soft but not colored, about 2 minutes. Add to the soup and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Pour into a warmed soup bowl and sprinkle with remaining mint and pomegranate seeds, if using. .

 

Note:  You can double the meat mixture and cook the remaining half of the seasoned meat mixture as a pan-fried burger, top it with yogurt seasoned with garlic, and serve it in a pita bread. Or, you can form the rest of the meat mixture into meatballs, sauté them in butter or oil until browned, simmer them in tomato sauce, and then serve over rice with a drizzle of garlicky yogurt.